Do you feel afraid, hesitant and indecisive about organic hydroponics? Introduction There are two types of hydroponic nutrients, synthetic or organic based. A synthetic is in the form of water soluble salts developed by humans for plant intake. Comparable to the way table salt separates in water to form Na+ (cation) and Ci- (anion), the pre-formulated fertilizer salts separates into the correct spectrum concentrations of needed ions components needed for plant success. Organic fertilizer components are dependent upon organism in the water to convert the organic materials into an inorganic usable form for plants. Because of the non soluble of many nature sources of nutrition, organic based hydroponic have 20 - 30% fertilizer salts with the rest being soluble organic components, such as guano, plant extracts, worm castings, potash and kelp. Because all of the components are not identical in structure and properties they separate at different rates in the solvent creating a minor pH fluctuation. This is the major difference between synthetic and organic based nutrients, but is easily conquered with patience and practice. Reservoir Stability Organic hydroponic reservoir tanks gain from stability, because they attract and develop some level of microbial activity. In nature, the soil is regularly a stable place when it comes to temperature and to extent moisture content, pH and fertility levels. Good habits Keep hydroponic reservoir tank levels topped up to the full line with fresh nutrient water daily or automatic with a float valve. Maintain hydroponic reservoir tank cover, heavy light can destroy the organic hydroponic nutrient solution. Add only filtered or RO water to the organic hydroponic reservoir, tap water will contaminant the solution. Premix your organic nutrient concentrates with a small amount of filtered water before adding to the reservoir. Add calcium first to the hydroponic reservoir tank, to neutralize filtered water. Monitor the pH, EC and temperature of your organic nutrient solution daily. Bad Habits Add a big volume of filtered water directly to an running reservoir tank that has been depleted without having any organic nutrients in it, avoid huge swings in EC, TDS and pH. Depend on chemical pH adjusters. Use filtered out rain water, and if your system is running correctly, the pH will swing itself where it needs to be within a few days of mixing fresh for the first time. (pH 5.8 - 6.5) Allow reservoir tank temperatures to fluctuate widely. Monitoring Organic Solution Organic hydroponic is a living and monitoring key parameters can tell you a lot about the health of your organic hydroponic systems and the needs of your plants. Key parameters are EC, pH and nutrient water temperature For most growers, EC is a measure of how much nutrient are in a given reservoir tank. Synthetic nutrient and mineral salts give off higher readings. Maintain a lower EC with organic solutions than you would with conventional hydroponic solutions. pH in organic hydroponics will often start out less than optimal when first adding your nutrients to fresh filtered water, over the course of a few days, you should see the pH finally stabilize into a fair range of 5.8 to 6.5. Once stabilized, your reservoir tank should be maintenance free  expect from top ups with filtered water and diluted nutrient concentrates. Temperature is big. An organic hydroponics reservoir that experiences big swings in temperature is at risk of developing issues. Keep a stable 65 to 75 degree F reservoir tank temperature. If you loved this, you might also love these posts about nutrients: "How to mix nutrient in a hydroponic system" "Growing with A tank and B tank" Please share it on social media.... #hydroponics #hydroponicsystem #organic #hydroponicnutrients

Do you ever stop and wonder if there is other hydroponic system out there? What if it turned out that all this time you've been missing the right information on hydroponic systems? Introduction Hydroponics is a outstanding approach of growing microgreens, baby greens and lettuce 365 days a year. It's a extremely popular horticulture technique, however new indoor growers should know that it require a certain amount of maintenance and skill. Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) Nutrient film technique (commonly known as NFT) is a method of growing in which the microgreens have their roots in a depth-less stream of recirculating nutrient enriched water, in which are dissolved all the ingredients required. There is no solid rooting medium. A root mat is not fully in the depth-less stream of recirculating water and partly over it. The stream is very shallow and the upper surface of the root mat which develops above the water, it is slightly damp, is in the air. Around the roots which are in the air, there is a film of nutrients - hence the name nutrient film technique. If the root system is immersed in water, a situation comparable with water logged soil condition is achieved. The only oxygen accessible will be the dissolved oxygen in the recycling water. In order to bypass this situation, it is necessary to maintain the nutrient film principals. Ebb and Flow / Flood and Drain Ebb and flow systems (commonly known as flood and drain systems) mimic the way that plant root on the sides of streams are exposed to air when the stream is low but are in the water when the stream level is high. The grow medium is above the reservoir tank, which distributes the nutrient water to the flood tray and grow medium at a set time, so throughout the day the plant will go through moments of dryness as the nutrient water returns down through the roots back into the reservoir tank. The level of the water is measured so that the nutrient water doesn't overflow the flood table. An overflow drain in the flood tray also helps control flow by allowing the water to return back into the reservoir tank. The ebb and flow system recycles the nutrient water at timed intervals. These systems are mostly flat to ensure that the nutrient is delivered to all the plants. The system has a separate reservoir that sits underneath the system. A tube connects the reservoir to the system and a pump is used to send the nutrients from the reservoir and into the flood tray, where it will return back down into the reservoir tank. This system requires less pumping than an NFT system, in a few cases pumping nutrients to the plants only two or three times a day. Hydrocorn clay pebbles are the most popular medium to be used in the net pots in an ebb and flow system. Drip Irrigation Most outdoor growers irrigate giant plots by setting up tube systems that can span over big distances on soil. In some cases a well is created to supply the water. A pump pushes the water up from the well and filtered. This is crucial because fresh water contains particles that will clog an irrigation system. A o-ring filter is a common type of filtering system used with drip irrigation. The water is pumped slowly through a main tube that splits into lines along the way. Each line is kept quite close to each plant, so plant spacing is critical. Some pressure valves and back flow valves may be needed to have the system work perfectly. The key to drip irrigation system is to keep the water close around the plant. Drip irrigation only puts water where the roots will get it right away and conserves a lot of nutrients and water. Drip irrigation works just like the ebb and flow method, except nutrients are carried to and from the plants much slowly, thru the drip irrigation ring. Drip irrigation is something that ebb and flow users can changeover to conserve nutrients. Rather or throwing out a reservoir and filling it up with new nutrients, drip irrigation uses up everything. Drip irrigation uses the least amount of water desired to grow leafy greens and is relatively simple for the experienced hydroponic grower to do. Aeroponics Aeroponics improves the use of air around the root zone for plants to take in nutrients through water vapor for plant growth. The roots are dangling in the air and fed with a fine vapor of nutrient water for a very little period of time with more recurring interval. The standards of aeroponics are based on growing plants whose roots find the perfect condition with regards to oxygenation and dampness. These conditions take into consideration better plant nutrient intake in a more balanced way, with rapid development of plants. Excellent growing condition by controlling the temperature and humidity reassures a grower with high yields. Even the consumption of plant nutrient that is given to a closed system of the plant container is very limited allowing water savings. To produce a 2 lbs of eggplants in a traditional farm consumes about 66 to 92 gallons of water, growing hydroponically consumes about 17 gallons of water, while only 4 to 7 gallons is consumed in aeroponics. This system offers the opportunity to enhance crop production and diminish costs compared to traditional farming methods. Aeroponics successfully takes advantage of every vertical space for farming or production of the greenhouse and can be used for maximum production of food per area. If you loved this, you might also love these posts influence by nutrient film technique: "How to maintain a NFT microgreens system" "How to operate a NFT microgreens system" #growingmicrogreens #nutrientfilmtechnique #nftsystem #ebbandflow #floodanddrain #hydroponicsystem #hydroponics #aeroponics #dripirrigation #nft #indoorfarming

What if I said that every grower, master grower and head grower use a light quantum sensor for microgreens? Introduction DLI (Daily Light Integral) is used to define the entire quantity of light delivered over the course of an full day. The DLI is describe as the number of moles (particles of light) per day, so the unit is posted in trade journals as "moles/day" or in scientific publications as "mol·m−2·d−1". The daily light integral is a new concept for the indoor controlled agriculture industry but it has the upper hand, especially plant growth is often closely correlated to the daily light integral. Measuring Light The most common units for measuring light are the foot candle and lux. It is crucial for growers to understand the limitations of these units. Both units add an instantaneous light intensity at the time the reading is taken. Natural light levels are constantly changing and one measurement in time does not accurately means the amount of light a microgreen has received in a day. Most growers, master growers and head growers measure instantaneous light in micro moles (umol) per square meter (m-2) per second (s-1). This "quantum" unit qualifies the number of photons used in photosynthesis that fall on a square meter every second. Yet, this light measurement also an instantaneous reading. The Importance of DLI in Grow Rooms DLI ia an important variable to measure in every indoor grow room because it effects microgreens growth, development, yield, and quality. DLI can effect the root and shoot growth. Growers, master growers and head growers who regularly monitor and record the DLI received by their microgreens crop can quickly determine when they need more lighting or less lighting. There are devices that automatically measure and calculate the DLI your microgreens crops are receiving. One of these is the WatchDog weather station produced by Spectrum Technologies. This device is portable and should be placed next to your crop to determine the DLI for that precise area. One more method to measure DLI is to use a light quantum sensor connected to data logger. The sensor measures instantaneous light intensity at some defined interval, which allows you to calculate DLI. No matter which sensors you use, it is important to keep all light sensors level and clean to assure accurate readings. DLI Recommendations Microgreens grown under light limiting conditions (a low DLI), commonly have delayed growth and development. We recommend that microgreens growers provide a minimum of 6 to 8 mol·m−2·d−1 of light. But remember, DLI requirements differ between microgreens crops. If you love this post, I'd be thankful if you'd help it spread by sharing on LinkedIn, FaceBook or Twitter. Thank you! #microgreens #DLI #dailylightintegral #micromole #indoorgrowroom #urbanagriculture #indoorfarming #growingmicrogreens

Everyone agrees that knowing how to grow food indoors with grow lights is valuable. It improves your health, brightens your day, calms your nerves, and allows you to do more with your existence. Introduction Grow lights are the most important environmental element affecting plant growth and development, because selection of grow lights can have a remarkable effect on the costs, operational costs, and quality of plants in your indoor grow room. This blog describes the physical properties of grow lights. Light sources often used in indoor grow rooms are introduced with a simple clarification of the fundamentals necessary to understand the grow lights. Particular importance is placed on LEDs, which have received extraordinary awareness recently, and on florescent lights, which are still commonly used in indoor grow room. Physical Properties Light is electromagnetic energy, which is also explained as electromagnetic radiation comprise both visible and invisible wavelengths. The smaller the wavelength, the greater the energy. The wavelength of visible light ranges from 380 to 780 nm, which is what people eyes see. Visible light is key to plants because it occurs simultaneously with photosynthetically active radiation (PAR, 400-700 nm). For solar radiation, 97% is inside the 280-2800 nm range. In this regard, 43% is visible light, which is practical for plant growth, 4% is ultraviolet, and 53% is infrared, which make heat. Only electric lights are used in indoor grow rooms. Light has two opposed properties: it can be notice as a wave phenomenon and it also acts as separate particles called photons. A photon is the smallest particle of light, or a single quantum of light. Light varies in at least three dimensions: quantity, quality, and duration. When electric lights are used in a indoor grow room, the lighting cycle, which affects plant growth and development, can be willingly changed. Light effects plants in two ways: providing energy or a quantum source and acting as an information medium. While an energy source, the photons of light, is caught by plants and a part (up to 10%) of photons caught by plants is converted to chemical energy (carbohydrates) through photosynthesis. Almost all of the light energy or photons caught by plants is converted into heat energy. Light Sources Till recently, most of the light sources used for indoor grow rooms were fluorescent lights and high intensity discharge (HID) lights. Till just a decade ago, LEDs were used almost exclusively for research on plant cultivation, but are now being used as a light source for commercial plant cultivation in indoor grow rooms because of their fast price decline and quick improvement in luminous efficacy, which is a measure of how efficiently an electrical lamp produces visible light. LEDs LEDs offer advantages over fluorescent and HPS lights: they are strong; produce a stable output; are long lived, compact, and lightweight; turn on right away; and allow the light output to be easily controlled with a light source consist of several color types of LEDs. Benefit of using LEDs as a light source for indoor grow rooms is that LEDs offer great flexibilty for making various light environments compared to conventional lights. A light source having a few types of LEDs with different peak wavelengths can produce light of which the spectral radiant inconstancy can be varied with time. The biggest disadvantage of using LEDs for indoor grow rooms is the high beginning cost for a set of LED lights, compared to conventional lights. Fluorescent Lights Fluorescent lights offer no direct advantage over other lights including LEDs. Tubular fluorescent lights are the most suitable light source at present for indoor grow room when taking into account all the factors of bulb and luminaire prices, rated life, luminous efficacy, ready availability, and lighted bulb temperature. A tubular fluorescent light normally consist of a glass tube coated inside with a fluorecent material (phosphor), two tungsten electrodes at the two inside ends that are coated with an electron emissive material, a tiny amount of mercury, and low vapor pressure insert gas (mainly argon) enclosed in the glass. High Intensity Discharge (HID) HIDs are a type of electrical gas discharge light, which generates light by means of an electric arc between tungsten electrodes sheltered inside a translucent or transparent fused quartz or fused alumina arc tube. HID lights make more visible light per unit of electric power adsorbed than fluorescent lights, since a larger proportion of their radiation is visible light in contrast to infrared. Yet, the lumen output of HID lighting can lower by up to 70% over 10,000 burning hours. If you enjoyed this, you might also enjoy this blog on lighting: Meet the industry : Jacek Helenowski #quickguide #growlights #leds #fluorescent #highintensitydischarge #indoorgrowroom

Want to maximize your knowledge on humidity and temperature? Here are six topics that are sure to help. Introduction In order to maintain the A1 environment for plants to grow in a controlled setting with artificial lighting, it is essential for you to understand the nature of the environmental influences and how to measure and evaluate them. This blog describes the physical and chemical resources of the following environmental components and their calculations: humidity, temperature, CO2 concentration, air flow rates, and number of air exchanges per hour. In addition, the basic concepts of energy balance, radiation, and heat conduction and convection are outline in detail. Temperature, Energy, and Heat Temperature is an indicator of the realistic heat energy content of an object or a substance. Many plant physiological processes are affected by plant temperature, which is controlled by the transfer of heat between plant tissues and the surrounding environment. That being so, monitoring and controlling the air temperature is critical for managing plant physiological activity and response. In a indoor environment, air temperature is often controlled at a comparatively constant level, resulting in constant plant temperature and, as a result, consistent physiological activity. Energy Balance Any object with a temperature above 0 K (absolute zero) emits thermal radiation, including the plants themselves and their environment. Energy received by plants includes absorbed radiant energy from lights and the absorbed infrared irradiation from the environment. Energy leaving microgreens includes energy lost through emitting infrared radiation, heat convection, heat condition and heat loss thru evaporation. The heat by conduction and convection from leaves is referred to as sensible heat, and that connected with the evaporation or condensation of water as latent heat. Microgreens leaves have high absorption in the photosynthesically activity radiation (400 to 700 nm), but the chemical energy fixed by photosynthesis is inconsequential small compared to the total energy of the plant. Leaves of nearly all species have a low absorption in the close by infrared scale (700 to 1500 nm) because those wavelengths are transferred through or reflected from the leaf. In difference, absorption is high (roughly 95%) in the far infrared waveband (1500 to 30,000 nm), that can contribute notably to the thermal energy load on the plant. Radiation Radiation in the far infrared wavebands is essentially blackbody radiation discharged by environment objects. Objects of higher temperature discharge larger quantities of far infrared radiation than objects at a lower temperature. The main source of radiation energy in indoor environments are lights and reflectors. Conventional lights for indoor grow rooms and greenhouses, such as high pressure sodium lights and metal halide lights, have exterior temperatures of over 212ºF and emit large amounts of far infrared radiation. This radiation is absorbed by plants, causing increased plant temperature regardless of environment air temperature, through hindering control over plant physiological activity. In indoor environment, this challenge is compounded by the small interval between lights and plants that is advantageous for maximizing space use efficiency and plant productivity. So, it is preferable to use light sources that emit much less far infrared radiation, such as LEDs (30ºC/86ºF) and fluorescent lights (40ºC/104º). Heat Conduction and Convection Energy is manage between a plant and its environment at the molecular level. Energy is transferred by conduction from the leaf cells to the air molecules in contact with the leaf. Conductive heat moves the interface between leaf and air is restricted without convective motion due to the low thermal conductivity of air. Conductive heat interchange can also happen between plant parts and other solid or liquid media. However, the impact of this conductive heat interchange on the plant's energy blueprint is small, because plants do not have physical contact with solid objects or liquid media. Controlling leaf and air temperatures evenly at every growing level is important in indoor grow rooms. If air circulation in a grow room is inadequate, air temperatures at the higher growing levels will be warmer than lower levels, causing the leaves in the higher canopy to also be warmer. by providing air movement in the whole grow room, the vertical air and leaf temperature inclines can be minimized, as well as differences within each horizontal canopy. Humidity Water vapor is the gases state of water and humidity is a measure of its content in the air. The amount of climatic water vapor can range from nearly zero up to 4% of the total mass of air. Absolute humidity, or humidity ratio, is a measure of the real water vapor content in the air and is communicated as the ratio of mass of water vapor to the mass of dry air for a defined volume of air. The air can hold on to more water vapor at higher temperatures than at lower temperatures. Relative humidity is temperature dependent and used to communicate the water vapor content of air found on the maximum amount of water the air can hold for a given temperature and pressure. It is almost all expressed as a percentage or ratio of the given water vapor content to the maximum at a given temperature. As a blueprint, if the air temperature become less with no change in water vapor content, the maximum water holding volume of the air drops, resulting in a higher relative humidity. Water vapor is produced by evaporation from open water surfaces and evaporation from wet surfaces such as soil and plants. In a indoor environment, plants are constantly adding water vapor to the air through transpiration, which is the evaporation of water from plant surfaces to the environment. Well, actively growing plants can transpire a large amount of water, resulting in a rapid increase in the water vapor content and humidity in a semi closed indoor environment. When the air conditioning system is operating, humidity is kept under control because water vapor condenses on the cooling coils, dropping the moisture content, and thus humidity, of the air. For that reason, one approach to controlling humidity in a indoor environment is to alternate the functioning of the lights to generate heat and cause the air conditioner to run, resulting in concurrent cooling and dehumidification of the grow room. Dehumidifiers can be installed in the indoor environment that do not rely on the operation of air conditioners. These units may be used in indoor environment applications that require day/night cycles, when turning on the lights for dehumidification would be undesirable. They can also be used to avoid operating lights and air conditioners during peak hours use periods, lower energy cost. Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) Relative humidity is commonly used as a measure of air humidity, it supplies no direct information about the driving force of transpiration and evaporation. Instead, the vapor pressure deficit (VPD) is a measure of the driving force, meaning that transpiration and evaporation rates are proportional to VPD. VPD is the difference (deficit) between the amount of moisture in the air and how much moisture it can hold when it is saturated at the same air temperature and is expressed in units of pressure. While water vapor content increases, water molecules apply more force on each other, resulting in a higher vapor pressure. Because air can hold more water vapor at higher temperatures, the maximum water vapor pressure is higher at higher temperatures. When the VPD is too low, transpiration will be reserved and can lead condensation on leaves and surfaces inside the indoor environment. Also, when the VPD is high, the plant will draw more water from its roosting an effort to avoid wilting. If the VPD gets too high, plants close stomata and shut down the transpiration altogether in an effort to prevent excessive water loss. In indoor environment, the idea range for VPD is from 0.8 kPa to 0.95 kPa, with an optimal setting of around 0.85 kPa. CO2 Concentration CO2 is a naturing occurring chemical compound. It is a linear covalent molecule and is an acidic oxide, and reacts with water to give carbonic acid. CO2 is a nonflammable, colorless, odorless gas at standard temperature and pressure and exists in earth's atmosphere at this state as a trace gas. Atmospheric CO2 concentration varies with time of day and location depending on adsorption and respiration of plants and animals, and human activity. CO2 is produced from the combustion of coal or hydrocarbons, the fermentation of liquids, and the respiration of humans, animals, and fungi. Air Current Speed Air current speed is defined as distance air travels over a specified period of time, such as one meter per second. Air velocity is the term used when the direction of air current speed is specified. Inadequate air current speed around plants suppresses gas diffusion in the leaf boundary layer, which later on reduces rates photosynthesis and transpiration and hence plant growth. Maintaining suitable air speeds indoor environment creates small turbulent eddies around the leaf surface that facilitates gas exchange between the plants and the surrounding environment, promoting plant growth. Low air speeds can cause variations in air temperature, CO2 concentration, and humidity inside the plant canopy, resulting in inconsistent growth on leaves and other surfaces in the grow room, helping to prevent unwanted growth of bacteria and molds. Fans can be used to circulate air movement and control air speed within the plant canopy in the grow room. To achieve exact air speed control, special calculation and design master plans regarding the location, number, and capacity of fans are required when a indoor grow room is built. Number of Air Exchange Per Hour Number of air exchange per hour is a measure of how many times the air within a defined space is replaced by new air, which is defined as the ratio of hourly ventilation rate divided by volume of room air. If possible the number should be small for the purpose of controlling the environment and preventing entry of pathogens and pest. But, a minimum air exchange rate should be maintained to prevent the accumulation of ethylene in a indoor grow room, which can cause damage to the plants. What am I missing here? Let me know in the comments and I'll add it in. Next week I'll post about lighting..... #humidity #temperature #hydroponicspecialists #urbanagriculture #indoorenvironment #indoorfarming #VPD #vaporpressuredeficit

Visualize... by the end of this blog, you will be able to maintain a NFT microgreens system, all because you learned four very important processes, and the special reasons why those processes are so essential. Basic layout of an NFT microgreens system: NFT channels are to be used, these are then laid into position on a slope steel frame so that they will discharge straight into the outlet (i.e. lower) ends of the NFT channels that are connected to the drainage manifold. A PVC feed pipe is then connected to the circulating pump so that the nutrient water from the reservoir tank is delivered to the inlet (i.e. the upper) ends of the NFT channels. A small 3/16" polythene tube (one or two per channel) delivers the water from the feed pipe into each channel. These feed tubes are prepared by tapering the end of the tube that is to be inserted in the feed pipe, they can quickly be tapered using a pencil sharpener. A hole is drilled in the feed pipe than a 3/16" grommet is inserted into drilled hole. When the tapered end of the feed tube is pushed into the undersized grommet hole, a correct fit is ensured. The nutrient water flows by gravity as a very shallow stream down the channels, each channel discharging in the drainage manifold then into the reservoir tank. When the reservoir is nearly empty, the circulating pump will still contain sufficient water to maintain a supply to the microgreens crop. The rate of flow that goes to the channels can be easily controlled by placing micro valves to the 3/16" polythene tubes connected to PVC feed pipe. Maintenance of nutrient water circulation: Circulation loss could be catastrophic with an NFT microgreens crop. Yet, some water will be maintained within the root mat if circulation should fail, so there would be time available to restore it. How long that time will be, determines on the time of day, the time of year, the location, growing medium, and the variety of crop. It could range from 1 hour to 48 hours. It is highly recommended to have an power monitor alert system should circulation stop, because if there is no monitoring system then it is necessary to have regular checkups throughout the day to analysis that pumps are properly working. The best power monitoring system is MarCell device. The flow of nutrient water in these pipes will cease immediately when pumping ceases. Although, the drainage manifold or the NFT channels the gravity flow of water will continue for some time after pumping stops. Pumping will stop for one of two reasons only, either from a mechanical failure of the circulating pump, or from a power outage. It is extremely important to have two circulating pumps installed in the system, one in use and one on backup. In case circulation should fail because of a power outage, there should be a backup pump that can be put into use, by a automatic switch for 12 volt backup system. With these safeguards, circulation should never fail to be maintained. Emptying an NFT microgreens system: The logistics of emptying an NFT system are very straightforward. It is simply necessary to secure a hosepipe to the end of the drainage mainafold pipe, place the open end of the hosepipe in a drain and the system will empty itself without disturbing the flow of the nutrient water past the root mat of the microgreens in the NFT channels. Because a fraction of the flow from the circulating pump is regularly returning direct to the reservoir tank via the outlet pipe, this fraction of flow will go to waste via the hosepipe that has been secured to the outlet pipe. This loss will increasingly empty the reservoir tank. When the system has been emptied as much as possible, then the hosepipe should be removed from the outlet pipe. In order to minimize pump failure, it is best to inspect, take apart pump, and clean out buildup. Sanitation and Cleanliness: Proper sanitation and cleanliness is essential to running a successful hydroponic microgreens operation. The walls and floors of your grow room should remain clean and free from standing water and other sources of contaminates. Your water reservoir tanks should be cleaned regularly and pump filter should be checked every couple of weeks, because of debris build up. A diluted calcium hypochlorite solution can be used to clean all of these surfaces. If calcium hypochlorite is used on channels it should be allowed to dry and then rinsed off with clean water. The drainage manifold is not glued to the channels and is easily removable, because the PVC should be cleaned and sanitized on a regular basis to prevent contamination sources from forming. Next week's post is about humidity and temperature. What would you like to see in our future blog? Let us know in the comments. #nft #nutrientfilmtechnique #hydroponicspecialists #hydroponics #urbanagriculture #maintenance #microgreens #sanitation #growingmicrogreens

The reason for writing the ultimate guide on preventing microgreens from drying out is to help prevent the several drying out problems that commonly occur when a grower starts a microgreens business. Imagine having Michelin star chefs waiting on specialty microgreens for their evening services and you come to your grow room early that morning, only to see all the microgreens dried out. This leads to several dreaded phone calls to the chefs letting them know, there are no microgreens to deliver. In this guide, we'll cover four common issues that lead to microgreens drying out: Improper humidity and temperature, poor choice of lighting, improper NFT maintenance, and choice of proper soil and/or hydroponic medium. Now here's the guide so this doesn't happen to you: Humidity & Temperature: Harsh temperature and humidity levels tend to deter healthy microgreens crops and can dry out them when temperatures are high and/or humidity is low. Outer limits for all microgreens crops temperature ranges are from 50ºF/10ºC to 85ºF/29ºC and humidity ranges from 50% to 75%. Normally, most seeds do need warmth and moisture for germination, with ranges around 70ºF/ 21ºC to 85ºF/29ºC and 75% to 90% depending on variety. Controlling your environment is key to not letting your microgreens dry out. Installing a self-contained wireless data logger will help you keep an eye on your grow room with the convenience of your smart phone. Lighting: Microgreens need light to grow. Without light, photosynthesis cannot exist. Not only do different varieties need different amounts of light to thrive, finding the right type of light bulb can be difficult to ensure healthy microgreens. Incandescent lamp is highly a inefficient light source, with a 100 watt bulb just 2.1% efficient. That means it produces about 2 watts of light and 98 watts of heat. This lamp can dry out microgreens within hours depending on your grow medium, temperature, humidity and distance to incandescent light. T5 fluorescent lamp is an inefficient light source, with a 100 watt bulb at about 8% efficient producing about 8 watts of light and 92 watts of heat. This lamp can dry out microgreens within 24 hours depending on grow medium, temperature, humidity and distance to the T5 light. LEDs lamps are a 30% efficient light source. They do not give off as much heat as the T5 fluorescent and incandescent bulbs. Because they're so energy efficient and provides bulb temperatures at 110ºF/43ºC, this lamp can dries out microgreens within 48 hours (or twice the amount of time of a T5 fluorescent lamp), again depending on grow medium, temperature, humidity and distance to the LEDs light. NFT Maintenance: Very little filtration is recommended in an NFT system, if the nutrient water does not contain solid particles, and if the process of supporting the microgreens does not discharge solid particles into the return tank. If there is a problem with solid particles in the nutrient tank, a inline filter should be installed on the 1/2" supply pipe between the main pump and the 1/16" inlet tube to the NFT channel(s). If there is a serious problem with the system clogging up, then the filtration can be done by using a mesh screen in your return pipe. The mesh screen and the inline filter have to be cleaned and replaced frequently. Soil Versus Hydroponic Medium: In general, microgreens will be healthier and taste better if grown in high quality soil. The sweetest taste often comes from soil that contains some beneficial bacteria-delivering bioavailable minerals in the soil. That being said, there is a lot of microbial activity happening in the soil that researchers are only now discovering. It is best to try a few different mixes to see which works best in your environment. Run test with two different soils. First fill one 10x20 tray half way, and fill a second 10x20 tray up to the brim with one soil mix. Check the trays daily to determine how many days it takes to dry out. Test other soil mixes to see which performs best. And remember, numerous microgreens can be grown without soil, and you can get a very gorgeous harvest from a good hydroponic system that contains proper nutrients and beneficial bacteria. Coco coir is a waste product of the coconut industry with ok water retention capacity and oxygen capacity. It is best to try a few different brands to see which is not high in sea salt and is very fine grained. Run the same test as described above to determine how many days it takes to dry out in your environment. #ultimateguide #microgreens #dryout #hydroponicspecialists #urbanagriculture #humidity #temperature #nftsystem #growingmicrogreens

The best way to operate an NFT microgreens system is to be position on the floor and make sure you can walk along the channels planting and harvesting close to the floor with your upper body curved forward. This will help keep the output per man-hour low. This approach has been the best over the last 15 yrs of working with NFT. Nutrient film technique (commonly known as NFT) is a method of growing in which the microgreens have their roots in a depth-less stream of recirculating nutrient enriched water, in which are dissolved all the ingredients required. There is no solid rooting medium. A root mat is not fully in the depth-less stream of recirculating water and partly over it. The stream is very shallow and the upper surface of the root mat which develops above the water, it is slightly damp, is in the air. Around the roots which are in the air, there is a film of nutrients - hence the name nutrient film technique. Measurement of pH: The easiest method of measuring pH is to use pH test strips which changes color according to pH of the nutrient water which it is dipped. The color of the damp strip is then compared with a pH color chart. When using this method to measure the pH of nutrient water, it's not the most sufficiently accurate way for the purpose. The best method is to use a Bluelab pH pen, It's a small, battery operated device with a probe that is placed in a reservoir of nutrient water. An acidic solution has more positively charge hydrogen ions in it than an base one, its like a battery that can produce a higher voltage. A pH meter takes advantage of this and works just like a voltmeter, it measures the voltage produced by the nutrient water. Adjustment of pH: The pH of the nutrient water for most microgreen crops should not rise over 6.5 or drop under 5.8. If the pH of the nutrient water being fine tuned manually, it should be measured twice daily. If your local water source is acidic, the pH will drop (usually this is not the case, most local water comes out neutral); if it is base the pH will rise. If the pH rises, pH down should be added to the nutrient water to lower the pH to 5.8, whenever the pH value has risen to 6.5 or higher. One Part Nutrient Versus On-Site Mixing: One part nutrient, specially developed for microgreens, can be purchased. This has been made workable by the broad range of leniency to nutrient supply that is exhibited by microgreens crops. One part nutrient will give satisfactory growth of most varieties at the vegetation stage. The leverage of using one part nutrient are several. The most important leverage is that it reduces output per man-hour. The quality control of mixing is in the factory. Errors in measuring that can occur on an NFT indoor farm are reduced because less measuring is required. The drawback of one part nutrient is that they're much more expensive. Before deciding that it is cheaper to buy the component chemicals and mix the formulation on site, an evaluation should be made of all the costs. There is the very difficult assessment of the managerial cost of ensuring quality control in the formula. A further consideration is the difficulty of obtaining all the components locally and sustainable. If it is decided to use one part nutrient, it is preferred to have available on site a supply of chelated iron, If the pH of the nutrient water unknowingly allowed to rise too high, the iron in the nutrient water will be converted into a form in which it is not available to the microgreens crop. Should this arise, it can be easily fixed, after correcting the pH, by adding chelated iron to the nutrient water. Water Quality: The first step of starting a microgreens system, is to fill up the reservoir with water. Water is continually being lost from the system, generally through the leaves of the crop by a process called transpiration. The mass of water in the system is, maintained constant by the automatic replacement of that water that is lost. This is done by a float valve in the reservoir, it allows water to flow into the NFT system from an external source as required. This make up water will need to run thru a filtration system before entering the reservoir. It helps keep dissolved substances out of it. The nature and quality of the substances in tap water will vary with locality. If the substances are not removed from the water by the microgreens crop at a faster rate than they are supplied by the make up water , then the toxicity level will increase, until a concentration of one ion will be reached at which growth will be affected, and eventually a toxic level will occur. The number one substances which commonly causes trouble in this way is salt (sodium chloride, NaCI). Most microgreens require a little sodium and very little chloride for growth. When presented with a detailed analysis of your local water supply it is very difficult with present science to express an opinion as to whether the water supply is suitable for NFT microgreens system. Temperature of Recirculating Nutrient Water: One of the main advantages of NFT system, is that it provides the facility in large scale microgreens production, to control the root zone more accurately than has been possible in the past in conventional farming. One of the factors is the ability to control root temperature. In conventional farming, the soil temperature established has to be accepted, it is impossible to influence it. In NFT system, the root zone temperature can be controlled because the temperature of the recirculating nutrient water can be control. The best way to achieve this is with a water chiller or water heater. #hydroponics #indoorfarming #microgreens #nftsystem #nutrientfilmtechnique #nft #urbanagriculture #hydroponicspecialists #nickgreensgrowteam #growingmicrogreens #chicago

The Nick Greens Grow Team was hired to modify Garfield Produce Company's existing microgreens systems. After spending some time together, Garfield and Nick decided to co-develop an entirely new system. Here is an inside look at the process: #hydroponics #nickgreensgrowteam #passionforgrowingfood #microgreens #chicago

There are two basic ways to provide nutrients to a hydroponic growing system. You can buy premixed nutrients, or you can mix your own. Premixed nutrients provide everything your plant needs. Mixing your own nutrients is both more efficient and allows for a wider range of control. Here's a little basic information on nutrients for growing plants. Raw Kelp = Kelp is 99% Kelp extract from seaweed (Ascophyllum Nodosum). This product is water soluble and contains 1% soluble potash which is a direct reflection of its purity. Kelp extracts are also very rich in natural plant growth hormones. Raw Kelp is a beneficial supplements to all feeding schedules. It is also ideal for adding to foliar sprays and for creating optimal recipe solutions. Raw Humic Acid = Contains 59% Humic Acids derived from Leonardite which is the most concentrated, water Soluble humic acid product on the market. Humic Acid is a natural chelator and is beneficial supplement to all feeding programs. Raw Yucca = Natural wetting agent for solutions and foliar sprays and is great for flushing excess salts from root zone. Raw B Vitamins = Contains 9% magnesium and is an optimal magnesium supplement. Raw B-Vitamin is most beneficial during transplant, times of stress and during heavy fruit and flower production. Raw Cane Molasses = Cane molasses is an excellent source of carbon energy (food) for beneficial microbes. Can be sprayed directly on plant leaves, the nutrients and sugar are absorbed quickly, and nutrients are immediately available. Raw Silica = Silica can be used during all stages of growth and bloom for optimal stem and cell wall strength. It is a beneficial supplement to all feeding schedules. Raw Calcium/Mag = This product is a stand alone Calcium/Mag supplement. Due to its low dilution rates a little Raw Calcium/mag goes a long way. It's also ideal for preventing deficiencies and for creating optimal recipe solutions. Raw ominA = ominA is easily absorbed producing a dramatic effect on calcium uptake by the roots. It's completely water soluble and will not clog pumps or irrigation lines. Nature's Source Plant Probiotic & Nature's Source Plant Biotik = Aids in nutrient breakdown, availability and absorption while reducing nutrient leaching. Reduce planting and transplant shock for better plant establishment. Stimulates root development and nutrient uptake. Increases tolerance to environmental stress. Two part Nutrients: Am-Hydro Tasman Bay Herbs Nutrient Formulation = High performance growth nutrient formulation developed to push plant productivity specifically for herbs. Working Solution: The solution in your main reservoir that your plants are using to grow. Water, pH adjuster and stock solution make up your working solution. Stock Solution: A concentrated solution made from mixing dry minerals with water. This is the mixture you pull from to make your working solution. Mixing Solution: * Always add the part with phosphate first! (The reason is it could affect nutrient stability, especially if your water is high alkalinity.) 1) Weigh out your dry nutrients using a kitchen scale that using grams or ounces. Use equal parts at all times. (Don't mix A & B dry nutrients together) 2) Fill up two 5 gallon buckets with filter or tap water. (Label buckets A & B, so you know what's in the buckets) 3) Place A nutrients in bucket labeled A and put a small pump in bucket to mix solution. (Stock Solution) 4) Place B nutrients in bucket labeled B and put a small pump in bucket to mix solution. (Stock Solution) 5) Fill up your main reservoir with filter or tap water. 6) Place calcium in main reservoir. (This neutralizes the water) 7) Place A nutrient (stock solution) in main reservoir to meet desire ppm. 8) Place B nutrient (stock solution) in main reservoir to meet desire ppm. 9) Add micro-nutrients one at a time to meet desire ppm. 10) Adjust pH if needed to meet desire ppm. Premixed Nutrients: Nature Source Organic Plant Food 3-1-1 = Effective: Ideal for a wide range of crops, Nature's Source Plant Food 3-1-1 promotes rapid nutrient response and hearty plant growth. Sustainable: Contains oil seed extract, a renewable source of plant nutrition. It's low salt index lets you feed at higher rates than with most organic fertilizers. May be use as a foliar mist without worrying about burning or stretch. Convenient: It mixes easily with cold water with no strong odor. The readily available nutrition in Nature's Source Organic Plant Food 3-1-1 allows crop finish times similar to those of traditional water-soluble fertilizers. Mixing Solution: 1) Measure out Nature Source using measuring cup to meet desire ppm. 2) Fill up a 5 gallon bucket with filter or tap water. (Stock Solution) 3) Place Nature Source in 5 gallon bucket and put a small pump in bucket to mix solution. (Stock Solution) 4) Place Nature Source Plant Biotik to meet desire ppm. (Stock Solution) 5) Place Nature Source Plant Probiotic to meet desire ppm. (Stock Solution) 6) Fill up main reservoir with filter or tap water. 7) Place calcium in main reservoir. (This neutralizes the water) 8) Place 5 gallon bucket (Stock Solution) into main reservoir to meet desire ppm. #hydroponics #hydroponic #nutrient #naturesource #mixnutrients #nickgreensgrowteam

Are you ready to gain more control of your grow room and ditch pre-mixed nutrients? In a few easy steps, we will share with you the secret to mixing like a professional. We think nutrient mixing is one of the important techniques a grower can employ to maximize crop/plant efficiency. In our experience, it gave us more control when things went bad, and improved plant yield when everything was running smoothly. Try our techniques and let us know what you think A few things to consider before mixing: First, understand the PPE requirements to grow safely: - Dust mask (R95 or P95) - White polyethylene disposable apron - Chemical resistance gloves - Protective eye-wear/goggles - (2) Tanks an A tank and B tank (55 gallons per tank) Next consider the Macro vs Micro Nutrients Macro: MACRO - Nitrogen - Phosphorus - Potassium - Calcium - Magnesium MICRO - Iron - Boron - Copper - Zinc - Molybdenum Pay attention to what kind of crop you are growing. There are 2 types: -Vegetative Growth - Needs only 1 recipe in 1 stage throughout the whole process - Reproductive Growth - Needs 3 different recipes for 3 different stages Nitrogen and Potassium based substances are most important for leafy greens - Nitrogen based on Tank A - Nitrogen based Fertilizers (Calcium Nitrate, Potassium Nitrate, Magnesium Nitrate) - Potassium based in Tank B - Potassium based Fertilizers (Potassium Nitrate, Mono-potassium phosphate, Potassium Sulfate) Things to consider: - For larger scale greenhouses pay attention to the doser ratio 1:100 - Check the water pH levels - Check the Ec levels (amount of salt) - A couple of hours after mixing check bottom of tanks for precipitation buildup. Precipitation means fertilizer did not dissolve properly and there are "clumps" on the bottom which can clog tubes and effect levels. NEXT WEEK'S BLOG: MIXING NUTRIENTS #passionforeducation #passionforgrowingfood #urbanag #nutrient #vegetativegrowth #reproductivegrowth #hydroponics

Were you late planting your garden this summer? No need to worry. Here are some simple techniques that use cuttings (rather than seeds) to quickly start new plants. All you need is some fresh produce and some other household items such as: scissors, plastic cups, and toothpicks. Mint 1) Buy package of mint. 2) Select a healthy looking shoot -- nicely formed leaves, small internodes. 3) Cut the bottom of the stem with a pair of scissor at a 45° angle. 4) Remove some lower leaves. 5) Fill up plastic cup with tap water. ( make sure just the stem is under water) 6) Place cutting in water and place in shaded area. 7) Place the stem cutting in a pot of soil, once roots form. 8) Water when the soil feels dry. 9) Caring for your new mint plant. Pineapple 1) Buy fresh pineapple. 2) Slice off the leafy top about half an inch below leaves. 3) Remove some lower leaves. 4) Place tooth picks all around the bottom of the stalk. 5) Fill up plastic cup with tap water to the rim. 6) Place stalk in water with tooth picks resting on the rim of the cup and place in shaded area. 7) Place the stalk in a pot of soil, once roots form. 8) Water when the soil feels dry. 9) Caring for your new pineapple plant. Garlic 1) Buy garlic bulb. 2) Break bulb into cloves. 2) Add a bit of tap water at the bottom of plastic cup (don't submerge the clove or it will rot). 3) Place the clove upright in plastic cup (with paper still on) and place in sunny area. 4) Place the clove in a pot of soil, once roots form. 5) Water when the soil feels dry. 6) Caring for your new garlic plant. #urbanag #urbangrower #mint #pineapple #garlic #propagate #passionforgrowingfood #passionforeducation